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3rd Gen Tacoma Third Brake Light Installation

Last Updated: July 11, 2024

First and foremost, thank you for supporting my passion.

These manuals will be updated and changed without notice.

If you have something that helped you during the install or know what can be added to make this more helpful please do reach out! 

Please read over this all before starting. The wiring and actual installation can be better understood that way.
This is an easy install! I hand coat every single screw head so it doesn’t rust, and wear in all the threads on all the screws and bolts to smoothen things out. Everything uses a locknut so nothing will back out.

You’ll need:

-(optional) wiring tools and connectors
-(optional)Panel Snap Removing Tool
-M4 Allen key
-M5 Allen key
-Soft scraper like plastic card and goo gone(or paint safe chemical of sort) to remove old gasket
-10mm, 11mm, and 12mm Sockets
-10mm very deep well socket(2″+) to make life not suck
-Flat head and Philips screwdrivers

There are multiple videos online already showing the process of removing the OEM 3rd Brake light. I will link to one below!
A few things before starting this – You may not have to drop the entire headliner and may be able to get by with just removing from the middle dome light back, and using a deep 10mm socket to get to the brake light bolts on the roof. Try to do the minimal work here and it’ll make your life easier. This is the hardest part – I promise.
Make sure to completely clean the old gasket residue off to ensure the new one has a good seal.


  • There are a total of 4 light cages for the SSC2 included.
    – 2x Straight
    – 2x Angled (10* down)

One cage should be installed as an example when you receive your order. Please look at the difference below so you know which is which.

Notice the flat portion of the screw holders. This is the easiest way to differentiate the two.
You can have both straight, both angled, or switch it up and have one of each. No matter your choice, the side with the foam gasket will face the inside of the Eko mount(facing out the rear of your truck when installed).
DO NOT have your SSC2’s in your cage yet. The cage needs to be installed into the mount first.

Foam Gasket is green for emphasis. Notice the direction.

In order to insert a cage, you’ll want to insert at an angle, and then straighten and push in. It’s a tight fight to ensure a water-tight seal but it will only slide in one way.


Below is what a properly installed cage looks like

Repeat for the opposing side.
Now that your cages are installed, insert the 4x(per mount) M3 screws into each corner and tighten. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! Be gentle – you will feel the screw stop and sit flush when it’s all the way in. 

Prepare to insert your SSC2’s now. 
Slide one at a time through the front of the mount until the bolt holes line up with the cage holes. When aligned, insert one of the M5 bolts into each hole to secure the SSC2 into place. Repeat for both lights.

Almost done! 
Take your rock lights without their lenses on and slide into the mount with a gasket between the rock light and the mount. Make sure your wires feed through! 
This step is now complete!

If your light is pre-wired you can skip this section. Plug in to the factory harness whenever you’re ready!

Wiring will vary so much from person to person based on the configuration both of their truck and their Eko Designs Third Brake Light choices.
This will cover the basics. You’ll need to be comfortable with splicing wires for this.
If wiring all 3x pods as brake lights you won’t need a relay, otherwise use a relay.

The LED pods run on 12v and each pod has a Positive(red) and a Negative(black) wire. These can be cut to any length. 

‣ ALL 3 ON WITH BRAKES (OEM configuration)

This will make all 3 lights operate as your truck did before – all 3 on with your brakes. You can either cut off the plug from your old third brake light and use that, or you can splice into your trucks wiring.
The blue wire on your truck plug side is your positive wire. White is ground. You’ll need to splice the red wires from the LED pods to the blue wire on your trucks harness, and the black wire to the white one.



Wire the two wanted as brake lights as mentioned above.
Your aux LED pod will need to be powered and turned on from somewhere else. You’ll need to wire it to a switch in your cab somewhere to be able to control it.

Install the new foam seal. Ensure the area is completely clean!!

Take the black magnetic brackets(old version) and stick them on the inside of the roof. The dugout in the bracket sits on the channel in the roof, and the magnet holds the entire bracket in place.

Put the mount itself against the roof and use the 2x stainless silver screws to attach to those brackets you just installed. Don’t over tighten, and don’t apply too much force.
-If you’re installing the BD version you’ll put the thinner framed body on the roof and attach that with the 2x stainless screws.

– BD ignore this part and continue below. Gaskets are pre-installed

You’ll need to use a rubber on all 3 of these. That’s rubber gaskets 🙂
Each kit includes 3x thin rubber gaskets for the LED pods. Align the holes
(If you ordered the angled spacer you’ll only have 2x thin gaskets included)
Attach the LED pods. Use the included screws but don’t overtighten.
You should done!


BD users the rest is for you!

Lay the light mount with the flush-face down and insert your LED pods.
Use the included screws to fasten the LED pods to the mount, but don’t overtighten(sinking in yet?)

With all 3 LED pods secured into the mount, slide the back of the mount from the top-down to hook and grab onto the thinner body

Insert the final 2 mounting screws in the bottom and you’re all set!

(coming soon)

(coming soon)

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